Winter's Roaring Arrival, with a Peruvian

Well, it's only six days later than the earliest I remember it happening in the past 14 years, but the first snow has fallen. I'm sure the Farmer's Almanac would have something to say about the significance of it in terms of the prognosis for this winter, but I can tell you that on Halloween last year I was probably wearing a T-shirt and shorts.

Still, last night, when the flakes were falling fast and furiously, there was only one thing to do: go out in it. And what better way to enjoy the winter wonderland than to gaze at it from a cozy banquette, sipping coffee? But not just any coffee.

Croissanterie Le Figaro Bistrot is a great place to hang out after whatever dinner you've had. Apparently it's the remains of a very old bank; we're talking maybe the 1920s or 30s, because they still have the same ceiling ornaments, the vintage lights hang on chains, the walls are dark, antique wood, and the old "Teller" booth now serves as the expediting counter.

They have two brilliant coffees that make me want to keep going back: the Espagnole, which has at least three liqueurs within, such as Tia Maria and Grand Marnier, and the Brazilien, which I believe contains Bailey's Irish Cream and Triple Sec. They rim the glass with lemon and sugar, mix the liqueurs with good coffee and top it off with whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles.

Trust me, you're feeling very good after two of these.

But after making good with the affable Parisian manager, who began making my drinks himself, I asked if somehow he couldn't improve on the two drinks.

Well, Rolland came up with a concoction he calles Le Péruvien, which is a high-octane version of the others. You'll be paralysed from the feet up, guaranteed, after two of these. And only he knows what's in them, as he wasn't telling. Then one day I slyly whispered to him "Rolland, mon cher, surely something called 'Le Péruvien" should contain something from Peru?" and he nodded his head vigourously. "Mais oui!" he said.

Next time I came I got my Péruvien as usual and Rolland slyly whispered to me "I added an extra something for this one!"

And it was truly delicious. I have no idea what he added, because he wouldn't tell me, but if you ever go, ask for Rolland and tell him "Le Péruvien" sent you. And when you walk out of there on a cold wintry day, you'll be glad your body from your Sorels up will be deliciously numb.